Japan,
The man 
with
snow-encrusted
soles

A haiku master from Japan’s Edo period, Basho captured the world in a handful of syllables. We follow in the footsteps and words of the wandering poet, along the white paths of the island of Honshu, from Mount Haguro to Ichinoseki.

Blessed indeed
Is this South Valley,
Where the gentle wind breathes
The faint aroma of snow.

Amid mountains of high summer,
I bowed respectfully before
The tall clogs of a statue,
Asking a blessing on my journey.

In the utter silence
Of a temple,
A cicada’s voice alone
Penetrates the rocks.

The changeable sky
Of the northern districts
Prevented me from seeing
The full moon of autumn.

A place to write

I wrote a linked verse of eight pieces and hung it on a wooden pillar. The starting piece was: Behind this door Now buried in deep grass, A different generation will celebrate The Festival of Dolls.

Shiki-Juraku

Machiya, another of Kyoto’s treasures, are steeped in the same tranquility as the temples. The space inside these traditional, two-floor wooden townhouses seems to circulate in mysterious ways. Shiki-Juraku, west of the Imperial Palace, has 10 machiya in two facing rows, all with the simplest of furnishings. The guiding principle here was to create a harmonious visual design: ceramics matched to the colors of the flowers, a touch of indigo on a sofa. Which one to choose? Perhaps no. 10, for its beautiful cypress tub facing the veranda.

Texte Léa Outier

Shiki-juraku

165, Konoe-cho, Aburanokoji-dori, Kyoto. Tél. +81 (0)75 417 0210.

www.shikijuraku.com

Komatsukan Kofutei

Basho took to the road, “. . . already dreaming of the full moon rising over the islands of Matsushima,” and found himself facing the bay, one of the country’s most famous landscapes: “innumerable islands are scattered over it from one end to the other. Tall islands point to the sky and level ones prostrate themselves before the surges of water.” All the rooms of this ryokan overlook the archipelago. “The pines are of the freshest green, and their branches are curved in exquisite lines, bent by the wind constantly blowing through them.”

Texte Violaine Gérard

komatsukan kofutei

35-2, Matsushima. Tél. +81 (0)22 354 5065.

www.new-komatsu.co.jp/en

Tamonkan

With weary feet and rosy cheeks, pilgrims visiting the sacred Three Mountains of Dewa like to stay at this hundred-year-old ryokan built at the base of Mount Haguro. A medley of food and cozy nights atop a futon, to start fresh the next day.

Texte Léa Outier

Tamonkan

115 Touge Haguro-machi, Tsuruoka-si, Yamagata-ken. Tél. +81 (0)235 62 2201.

Moscow, city, art

Next

Moscow,
back
to
the future

Carnet d’adresses

Shiki-juraku

165, Konoe-cho, Aburanokoji-dori, Kyoto. Tél. +81 (0)75 417 0210.

www.shikijuraku.com

komatsukan kofutei

35-2, Matsushima. Tél. +81 (0)22 354 5065.

www.new-komatsu.co.jp/en

Tamonkan

115 Touge Haguro-machi, Tsuruoka-si, Yamagata-ken. Tél. +81 (0)235 62 2201.

Address Book
Vidéo

249

Going There

www.airfrance.com

Flight frequency

Air France has 7 weekly flights from Paris-CDG to Tokyo-Narita.

Air France has 11 weekly flights from Paris-CDG to Tokyo-Haneda.

KLM has 7 weekly flights to Tokyo-Narita from Amsterdam.

Arrival airports

Aéroport de Tokyo-Narita.
À 66 km de Tokyo.
Tél. +81 (0)476 34 8000.
Aéroport de Tokyo- Haneda.
À 30 km de Tokyo.
Tél. +81 (0)3 5757 8111.

AIR FRANCE KLM offices

Aux aéroports.

Bookings

— Depuis la France : tél. 3654.
— Depuis l’étranger :
Tél. +33 (0)892 70 26 54.

Car rental

Hertz, aux aéroports :
Tokyo-Narita
Tél. +81 (0)476 32 1020.
Tokyo-Haneda
Tél. + 81 (0)33 744 0100.
www.airfrance.com/cars

Further reading

Journaux de voyage
Bashô, présentés et traduits du japonais par René Sieffert, éditions Verdier. © Éditions Verdier pour la traduction française, 2016.
The Narrow Road To The Deep North and Other Travel
Sketches by Matsuo Basho translated with an introduction by Nobuyuki Yuasa (Penguin Classics, 1966). Copyright © Nobuyuki Yuasa, 1966.

Japon
Gallimard, coll. Bibliothèque du voyageur.
Japon
Lonely Planet.
Japon Hachette
coll. Guides bleus.
Le goût du Japon
Mercure de France, coll. Le petit mercure.

© Antoine Corbineau / Talkie Walkie. Map for illustration. Purpose only.